Rubber Gucci

I want to like them, I really do…..it’s a loafer, great, its simple and not overly branded, excellent, its a shiny, almost metallic colour, oh mercy me enough already..

but wait,  it’s – in –  rubber? Seriously?

A rubber loafer? does it come with a G emblazoned Elastoplast for those special Gucci blisters?

It could have been the perfect start to my week but alas my search for a simple, stylish loafer continues..

A talented intern working for a large sportswear brand has just completed her fashion studies. As part of her final project she has decided to present a womens wear accessory concept and range.

Using the company where she interns for inspiration, she decides that another price level is needed, so one price point above the sportswear line, but lower than a catwalk line.

Her presentation looked amazing, it was clear, professional and precise so much so that the sportswear company discussed had considered using some of the aspects for their own research.

The college however, failed her, as they didn’t quite ‘get’ the concept.

anonymous fashion college, you are training people, not only to aspire to great levels of creativity and design but also to work professionally in the industry, to be commercial, to understand processes and to be market relevant. Maybe you should look outside the box a little and not just focus on the crazy avant guard.

So, I was debating whether to make a comment about the below article because it will label me as old, bitter and twisted (most of which is true) but at the same time, there was something in Colin McDowell’s piece for the B.O.F that really resonated with me – so I will share it, and then you can make the judgment on my bitterness.

The jist of his article is based in the premise that the hiking up of tuition fees (in the areas of Art and Fashion) will alienate the creative hub of England and will produce graduates from the privileged classes who are lacking in the ‘design hunger’ and who want to take the easy road to success..

Now to be fair, I don’t think that is a new situation. I don’t think the increase of fees will help the situation, and I agree with Colin about alienating the raw talent that cities like London nurture, but I think (and this is from experience) that over the last 10 years, there are already too many fashion graduates entering the industry expecting a cushy journey or exotic trips and instant fame.

Is there someone to blame? Or is it how society is now with an instant gratification generation expecting something for nothing?

The number of grads I have met who seem to think their first job should be senior designer or sourcing manager is quite scary, the knowledge they gather at college is basic and theoretical and is a great starting point, but it’s just that, a starting point.

It takes years to learn the industry and to understand the nuances of the process, It simply doesn’t happen in 6 months, yet trying to explain this to a first jobber is like telling them their dog died! It leaves them distraught and crest fallen.

Are colleges really to blame for this? Do they teach students that anything is possible and in 6 months they will get to be head of Dior? I don’t think so.

Or is it the preconceived notion from the likes of E! that the fashion industry is a ride to easy town in a pretty frock? After all Lindsay Lohan became creative had of Ungaro (albeit for 1 miserable season) – so therefore anyone can do it – and fail?

Whatever the case, the industry is changing and graduates expectations of it need to be kept in check.

Maybe the increase in college fees will prompt the colleges to really analyse what they are teaching and nudge them to make the courses more vocational and industry realistic, maybe it’s the job of the industry to re train the graduates once they start at the bottom rung, or maybe we have lost the likes of raw talent that once graced the streets of our cities and are let with a team of ‘i-want-it-now’ graduates.

Now I won’t lie to you, I generally scour the fashion press for tit bits and highlights, allowing a wonderful ‘fash’ person to do the legwork for me, and in this case its Imogen Fox at the Guardian who made a rather marvelous summary of what we should be focusing our beady eye on over the next few months. Below are just some of the trends to watch for;

Spots – these are big… not literally you understand but metaphorically… Polka dots, large, small, black, white all are clear and present. Is this a traditional trend for Fall? Not sure to be honest but as we’ve had nautical stripes for the past 3 seasons, its nice to go spotty if only for a change of shape.

Big Earrings – think Pat Butcher ( for non Brits see EastEnders). Shoulder skimming, bling or non bling, these ear droplets should neither be subtle nor slight. Be loud and proud my sweet, sweet friend taking care to watch the weight. Ears like a tribesman is by no means chic.

Bag Holding – strange trend I hear you say but not so… Gone are the bent-arm-handle-in -the-crook-of-elbow pose, instead we have large A4 clutch situation, grip it and hold it close to the chest like a sixth former holder her chemistry file.

Long boots – Not convinced this is a new trend as such. I guess the whole ankle freezer styles are out and long knee skimming are in… For those who live in Holland, you will be very aware that long boots have been in for, oh, say, forever. I guess this trend only applies to the Non Dutch population.

Colour red – Watch out for reds, that’s what the big names are pitching. Of course, no one in their right fashion mind calls it ‘red’ Instead think, vermilion, Merlot, burgundy and lipstick.

Coincidentally, just to throw in a plug….I have a whole section in my new book about colour names. In general, the colour shade remains the same each season, it’s the name that changes and just so you know; naming colours is big business. It’s neither to be sniggered at, nor held up in a bar and ridiculed.

Colour naming is a job and a serious profession. Something to aspire to me thinks..

However, rather than celebrating and glorifying their brand names in bigger and bolder print there has been a deliberate step back to their artisan roots to celebrate the craftsmanship and to show, by presentation, why the brand is an investment purchase.

According to the Toronto Globe and Mail, brands like Chanel, Gucci and Tods have begun presenting in key store locations around the world to demonstrate on a small-scale, exactly why their goods are luxury pieces and not mass-produced.

Chanel, for instance has around 10 female artisans in their company who add a wax seal to the Chanel no, 5 bottles of perfume. Once trained they can seal around 100 bottles an hour and to watch it being done in the slow, precise, methodical way is exactly why it’s marketed as a luxury product. In short, it’s done by hand, not a machine.

Gucci has demonstrations showing the formation of the strap of one of its newest bags and Tods, famous for its loafers, have craftsmen showing the make and construction of their moccasin shoe in London and Paris, with US and Asia to follow next year.

I like the concept. It’s old school artisan and teaches the customer to look at the smaller details, rather than the big tacky label, a concept, which has far-reaching implications not only for the bigger brands, but also smaller.

Example; take www.Etsy.com a website set up to push creativity and entrepreneurship is also about artisans and crafts. Established in the US, this company has millions of users, all creating and developing from their own home and all because they want to build a crafts or locally sustained business.

Personally, I think it’s the smaller business that challenges the bigger one on the ideas front, so the very fact that the large monsters are stepping back to an age where the label should be on the inside and discrete rather than large and vulgar should be welcomed.

It’s merely that I have seen a couple of funnies that show the more , how should I say, amusing side of the industry.

This time its the success of the Biba line which was taken over by House of Fraser in 2009. Making a profit under the leadership of the retailer, Biba has found a new customer base 35 years ater it first hit the scene.

However when pressed to explain the styling, the HOF spokesperson exclaimed it wasn’t a retro collection but merely celebrated the 70’s with jumpsuits, high waisted pants and maxi dresses. Not retro? really? um…….really?

OK!! – I have been told – so I will agree – 70’s is not retro.

The original founder is however less than impressed saying that this collection is too expensive and plans to launch her own label in conjunction with Asda ( for non brits see Target or Walmart as a reference.)

I feel a fashion fight brewing.