Tara St James of StudyNY released her Anti_fashion calendar earlier this year at Redress Raleigh Conference in North Carolina to a hail of appreciation by the small business crowd. Her calendar compares the traditional design, development, sales and production periods of a 6 month structure to the ‘Anti’ version which allows for monthly drops of seasonally specific capsules to hit the stores. T-shirts in summer and sweaters in winter. Ground breaking huh? She designs monthly, she sells monthly and she produces monthly. This not only gives a regular cash flow and clothes when they are needed, but also allows for regular work for the manufacturers rather than peaks and slumps in production lines.

This method of structured design and production is great for small businesses, its great for manufacturers, it’s great for the public and it’s something I talk about a lot in the lectures i give within the industry. So why isn’t it adopted by more brands?

Well, to my surprise, it might just be. Tamara Mellon, ex Jimmy Choo, announced earlier last week that she was launching her own fashion label which would sell clothes in the seasonal months that they should be worn in. For this high-profile individual to flip the traditional fashion calendar on its head takes some guts and a huge risk. Customers will love it for sure but from inside the industry, I’m curious about the stages of how this can be achieved when it comes to concept, colours and fabrics.

For instance, the concept of the collection would, i guess, still be set ahead of time, but colours and fabrics  will be selected from previous and current season to allow for seasonal relevance (fabric mills produce 6 months in advance to show new designs). When it comes to the design side, would she connect directly with her customer base to assess their likes, dislikes, wants or desires or would this be pre planned and fixed? So, on this point alone, it’s interesting to see whether her collection is designed and produced 6 months in advance and then just delivered monthly or whether it is designed, produced and delivered monthly so being able to respond to the customers. There is a very big difference behind the scenes.

But of course the PR of her doing something, potentially, so radical against the norm is a great way to launch a new brand, or sell her new book whichever is first. Regardless, it’s about time someone recognised the need for a more sustainable approach, however luxurious her line will be.

Susie

Co-lab54

Blue is the New Black

Through posting a discussion on LinkedIn.com to gain insider perspectives on a fashion industry conundrum, I discovered not 1 but 2 design initiatives.

Origami necklace

Peonyrice is an accessory brand sourced and produced responsibly in Asia through local communities. The project, an initiative of Pauline Cheung founder of Industria Collective (boutique design agency based in Hong Kong and Shanghai), is a brand of delicate head and neckwear aiming to benefit local artisans and in turn their communities.

Headwear - Peonyrice

With large-scale manufacturing units playing the lead in fashion production, its somewhat refreshing to hear that local si thriving amongst the giants of the East. Embracing traditional techniques and dying methods, this collection of headpieces, origami silk neck wear , and soft folded belts is updated weekly and shipped internationally.

Now I won’t lie to you, I generally scour the fashion press for tit bits and highlights, allowing a wonderful ‘fash’ person to do the legwork for me, and in this case its Imogen Fox at the Guardian who made a rather marvelous summary of what we should be focusing our beady eye on over the next few months. Below are just some of the trends to watch for;

Spots – these are big… not literally you understand but metaphorically… Polka dots, large, small, black, white all are clear and present. Is this a traditional trend for Fall? Not sure to be honest but as we’ve had nautical stripes for the past 3 seasons, its nice to go spotty if only for a change of shape.

Big Earrings – think Pat Butcher ( for non Brits see EastEnders). Shoulder skimming, bling or non bling, these ear droplets should neither be subtle nor slight. Be loud and proud my sweet, sweet friend taking care to watch the weight. Ears like a tribesman is by no means chic.

Bag Holding – strange trend I hear you say but not so… Gone are the bent-arm-handle-in -the-crook-of-elbow pose, instead we have large A4 clutch situation, grip it and hold it close to the chest like a sixth former holder her chemistry file.

Long boots – Not convinced this is a new trend as such. I guess the whole ankle freezer styles are out and long knee skimming are in… For those who live in Holland, you will be very aware that long boots have been in for, oh, say, forever. I guess this trend only applies to the Non Dutch population.

Colour red – Watch out for reds, that’s what the big names are pitching. Of course, no one in their right fashion mind calls it ‘red’ Instead think, vermilion, Merlot, burgundy and lipstick.

Coincidentally, just to throw in a plug….I have a whole section in my new book about colour names. In general, the colour shade remains the same each season, it’s the name that changes and just so you know; naming colours is big business. It’s neither to be sniggered at, nor held up in a bar and ridiculed.

Colour naming is a job and a serious profession. Something to aspire to me thinks..